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by Steve Newstrom reprinted with permission of author The following discussion is for a 6"x11/2" belt. The first thing you need is a used belt in relatively good physical condition - no holes or delaminations. I have been using Raytech True Circle Bands (TC's) because they are smooth, have relatively long life and are inexpensive. And they are easy to resurface. The second thing you need is a good epoxy. I have been using Hughes Associates Epoxy 220. It seems to hold up well under use and bonds the diamonds to the belt in an appropriate manner. The third thing is a used diamond grinding wheel, to places the belt on as a jig, when resurfacing. I mix about a teaspoon to a teaspoon and one half of the epoxy together in a small container. I then mix in 5 carats, of the same diamond powder grit that was on the belt originally, with the epoxy in the small container. Mix it in well. You have plenty of time because this epoxy takes about 1 hour to set up. I place the used belt on the used diamond wheel and place the diamond wheel on a dowel placed over two piles of books so the wheel will turn freely and nothing will touch the surface of the belt. Begin applying the epoxy diamond mixture on the belt with a screwdriver tip, Popsicle stick or maybe a stiff flux brush (haven't tried the flux brush but it sounds like it should work). Apply it as uniformly as possible over the belt. It doesn't seem like it goes on very well, but after a while the epoxy begins to flow over the belt and it smoothes out with time. That is also why you need to have the wheel over the dowel. You need to turn the wheel every couple of minutes to keep the epoxy from dripping down and forming thick spots. Keep turning that wheel and the epoxy box says if you have a heat lamp on it should only take 30 minutes to harden but I don't have a heat lamp and have not tried that. I usually let the belts cure for a couple of days before putting them on the grinder. The resurfaced belts with 5 carats of diam. powder on them seem to last longer and cut faster than the original TC's. The only downside here is that they aren't as smooth as the original belts and now it seems we have exceeded the life of the belting material in the belts and they eventually will come apart. Be careful when using these belts and be sure to use eye protection!! Has anyone else tried this and had luck with a different technique or using different epoxy or different types of belts or different amounts of abrasives. Has anyone had any bad experiences when trying to resurface belts. Thanks in advance for any discussion on belt resurfacing. By the way
Kingsley North has been my source for the diamond abrasives as well as
the epoxy 220.
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